The Yellow Dancer is a relative newcomer on the fly fishing scene. It is a ‘sport’ of the original Woolley Bugger devised by our friends north of the border. It has proved to be a ‘must have’ fly on most Scottish still water trout fisheries. As is always the case it has spawned the usual derivatives, Black Dancer , Orange Dancer, and I expect in the fullness of time we will have the Highland Dancer. I had to resort to my favourite fishing magazine , Fly Fishing and Fly Tying to get the dressing. It is a straight forward tie if you do the proper preparation.

The Dressing

Hook – Kamasan 175 or similar , sizes 8 / 10.

Tail – White marabou with a few strands of pearlescent micro flash.

Body – Rainbow flashabou or similar.

Rib – Fine gold oval.

Hackle – Long yellow cock palmered.

Head – Gold bead to suit hook size.

This is a pattern more popular in the USA , and New Zealand , than here in the UK. It is a large fly that makes only a brief appearance as an adult fly. In it’s nymphal stage it is a generous morsel for a trout.

I would suggest a long shank 8 hook for both the nymph and the adult fly. The pattern I have tied is from a book by an American author , Edson Leonard , dated in the 1950s. A large pheasant tail nymph with a leaded underbody would be adequate for the nymphal stage.

The Dressing

Hook - Long Shank 8 ( light wire )

Tail – Bronze Mallard ( a generous bunch ) optional

Rib – Fine  Mono

Body – A mix of brown and grey Seals Fur. Dub 3/4 of the hook length. After tying in build up a base for the wing. The wing has to lie flat along the top of the body. If the wing ‘ cocks up ‘ carefully unwind and apply more even turns to the base and try again.

Hackle - 2 Cree Cock Hackles ( brown as an alternative ). Wind the 2nd hackle through the 1st. Make a nice neat head and tie off ( as an option you can trim the underbody hackle fibres ).

Wing - Brown Turkey quill , doubled and tied flat .

Antennae – ( optional ) bronze mallard fibres.

This is an easy pattern to tie and it just might be useful to have a couple tied in case you are there on the right day.

Happy Fishing

Dave C. and the Team

The types of cape which you will come across are cock and hen capes from domestic poultry.

Hen capes are smaller and softer with denser fibres , and are usually used for wet flies , nymphs and lures. The hackle fibres are more mobile in the water. They can be wrapped around the hook in the conventional way or bearded , sometimes referred to as a false hackle.

Cock capes are larger and the hackles much stiffer and shiny. Occasionally you will come across a cock cape which is softer and duller , usually a lower grade cape , these are known as henny capes. These are very useful for lures or palmered patterns which need to be longer and give some kick to the lure. Cock capes are used mainly for dry flies , the stiffer fibres make the fly float better and are wound round the hook more times. Matching fibres can be used for the tail of the fly. The standard capes are usually available in a wide range of natural and dyed colours. They are graded , number one being the best , and most expensive. These are not necessary until you become proficient , ( and have a big fat wallet ) . Lower grades catch just as many fish. Most of these capes are now imported from India and China.

There are ranges of capes which are  from poultry specially bred in the United Kingdom , just for their feathers. The range of Metz capes is probably the best known. These have nice long hackles and are great to work with but are expensive. They are used mainly for dry flies. You should get more than one fly per hackle.

Hackles for north country spider patterns are usually from wild birds , many of which are now more difficult to obtain. Partridge hackles , brown and grey , are probably the best known and dye well. Others to look out for are woodcock , snipe , moorhen , cock and hen pheasants. If you know any shooting people ask for their help as many of them fish as well. If they do a lot of wildfowling , ( shooting ducks and geese ) they could help to get you CDC , teal flank and bronze mallard flank ………. all very useful. This range in itself would be an interesting lesson to put together.

Once you start collecting fly tying materials no walk along the river , or lakeside will ever be the same again. You will find yourself gathering feathers and anything else which ‘ just might be useful’ . On a recent trip my colleague could not believe I was collecting sheep’s wool off the barbed wire. Now that it has been washed in detergent in boiling water it will be dyed.

The tools you will need

1. Vice – Today you can buy an adequate vice for as little as £20, but you can pay hundreds.  Buy the best you can afford.
2. Scissors – You will need a pair of fine pointed very sharp scissors. Embroidery scissors are good. A good pair should last you for years as long as you don’t go cutting wire with them.
3. Bobbin Holder – The early models had no ceramic inserts in the tube and eventually started fraying the threads. It is worth the extra cost to buy ceramic models.
4. Hackle Pliers – Basic models are not expensive and will do the job adequately. I still have my original one that my mentor made for me from thick wire, and it still works.
5. Dubbing Needle – I still use hat pins. They are handy for cleaning out varnish from the hook eye and applying varnish to the head of the finished fly. You can buy the proper tool cheaply.
6. Threader – An indispensable tool for feeding your thread onto the bobbin holder.
7. Whip Finish Tool – If you can use one of these then use it. If you cannot , tie off with the traditional double half hitch ( like me ).
8. Varnish – You only need clear to start with. Apply with dubbing needle. Very good advice is to remember to put the lid straight back on the bottle when finished.
9. Beeswax – Indispensable for dubbing.
10. Pliers – A pair of small fine nosed pliers for de-barbing hooks
11. Dubbing Brush – Used for raising dubbed hair. Make one easily yourself using an old lollipop stick and glueing velcro to both sides at one end.